Thaindian News

By Radhika Bhirani
New Delhi, March 25 (IANS) Handloom, resham work, kantha, chikan, bandhini, block printing — classic couturier Tarun Tahiliani is giving his signature bridal wear a backseat to promote handloom as he feels the need to save and “reinvent Indian crafts”.

Tahiliani, who showcased his collection at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion (WIFW) Thursday, says he had himself moved away from using Indian handloom, but felt a dire need to return to it.

“Right now I am sick of doing bridal. I like everything very dull and muted these days. Too many of our weavers are committing suicide. I don’t think that’s a good thing. I have to say, I had moved away from Indian handloom. It was because it’s very difficult to work with - but now I am back with it,” Tahiliani told IANS.

The designer, who also styled Shilpa Shetty’s wedding dresses, says Indian handloom isn’t easy to mould and so many people in the industry shy away from using it.

“Indian handloom doesn’t construct too well. It is beautiful to wear as a sari or as a dupatta, but if you want to do make different clothes with it, you can’t. You can’t have perfect fits with handloom as it doesn’t mould like fabrics abroad. Our fabrics were never made for tailoring.

“And I like my clothes to be structured - for me, structure and fit is very important. So I have used quilting in my clothes this season,” he said.

For his autumn-winter collection at WIFW, the designer showcased gilets (sleeveless jackets) over little T-shirts, sarongs and his trademark sari drapes held together by embroidered belts. He also experimented with long tailored coats, wide pants, skirts, saris, with chikankari prints, distressed lace, Swarovski pearls and a new hand block print - dabu.

“We need to reinvent Indian crafts and churn it up for something new. A lot of Indian designers are now moving towards using Indian fabrics and designs with a western touch. I have used some raw silks from south India, block printing from Rajasthan along with my own prints.

“We print Ikats and different weights of fabric like chanderi and cotton silk mixed for our clothes. But the idea is to give a medieval based look with modern silhouettes - so that the clothes can be worn with over sari or jeans or skirt. I like to mix and match clothes,” he said.

Tahiliani says there is no such thing as Indian fashion - because it is just fusion wear which rules the roost nowadays.

“Everyone’s dressed in fusion - that’s the new way. We are fusion. We think in English, but you are Indian. Fashion can’t be Indian or Western, I think fashion has to be like our minds - a complete fusion,” he said.