Ashish Soni redefines couture with black and white collection

September 18th, 2008 - 12:13 pm ICT by IANS  

Mumbai, Sep 18 (IANS) Designer Ashish Soni’s sophisticated line of cashmere and woollen coats, pants, jackets, sherwanis and satin gowns - all in in black and white - served to redefine haute couture on the second day of the inaugural HDIL India Couture Week (HDIL ICW) here.”There is a misconception in India that couture means only bridal wear, which is not true. Couture means garments that are carefully hand stitched, which means they are closely associated with luxury. Any garment that has this ingredient is couture,” Soni said after his show here late Wednesday.

“To further this notion, I followed my heart and brought in a collection that was very sculptural, atmospheric, evocative, uber intellectual and uber classy. The handmade feel bespoke the tailoring process and was the focal point of my designs,” he added.

To refine the couture concept through visuals, the designer used a white backdrop and transformed the ramp with two huge scissors on its rear corners and with big round circles aligned down the runway.

Elaborating on the setup, Soni said: “The word couture means anything that is hand stitched. To stitch a garment you need basic things like a scissor, a thimble and a needle. The circles on the ramp depicted the thimble.

“This was my way of saluting and celebrating couture.”

The challenge for his collection was to revitalise the concept of couture by swapping bygone floor sweeping gowns with precisely sculpted silhouettes.

“I attempted to put together an unlikely combination of period and contemporary elements,” Soni explained.

He seemed to have succeeded.

The men’s line comprised a modern interpretation of the classical sherwani by incorporating revolutionary embroidery techniques that could modernise clothing history.

For women, the looks were in the form of slim pantsuits and skirt suits that are very modern and yet traditionally feminine at the same time.

Commenting on the collection, Soni told IANS: “My collection is a tribute to modern men and women.”

Why did he choose only black and white for the collection?

“As the theme of my collection was different, I had to be different in terms of choosing my colours also. With most couture designers, their collections are expected to have hues of bright and rich colours.

“Thus, I had no other choice than to opt for black and white,” he explained.

Commenting on Soni’s work, model-turned-actor Gul Panag said: “His collection is so contemporary and yet classic. I loved the gowns and embroidered jackets.”

The India Couture Week is the latest initiative of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), which annually stages two editions of the hugely successful Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW) in New Delhi.

Apart from Ashish Soni, the others who will be showcasing their collections at the India Couture Week, which concludes Sunday, are Manish Malhotra, Anamika Khanna, Manav Gangwani, Pallavi Jaikishan, Rohit Bal, Suneet Varma, Tarun Tahiliani and Varun Bahl.

Fashion diva Ritu Kumar had showcased her collection on the opening day Tuesday.

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